Skin Expert Online Course Part Two Section B

  • Lesson 1
  • Lesson 2
  • Lesson 3
  • Lesson 4
  • Lesson 5

Normal Skin

Our aim with normal skin is to keep skin balanced
Treatment goal -maintain but don’t over process

What to use during the facial treatment on normal skin

Makeup remover -oil cleanser
Cleanser - milk texture
Exfoliate - enzyme powder
Massage - grape seed oil
(Be generous with massage on normal skin to feed skin with healthy bloodstream)
Deep pore cleaning if needed
Mask - any hydrating ,shooting mask (if using LED mask Red 633nm for 15 min ,please keep in mind that for the use of LED mask skin needs to be cleansed first )
Cleanser - milk texture
Toner PH 3.5-5.5 (diluted with distilled water)
Serum- peptide or any balancing serum
Eye cream
Cream-moisturizer -lite soothing ,hydrating
Lip balm
SPF

At home recommendations for your client with normal skin

Morning routine
Lite cleanse with simple cream cleanser
Toner with PH 3.5 -5 diluted with distilled water
Vitamin C serum
Eye cream
Moisturizer cream lite in texture
SPF

Evening routine
Makeup removal oil based cleanser
Second cleanse milk based cleanser
Toner same as in the morning also
Deluded
Serum-peptide,hyaluronic,once a week could be added Lactic acid
On mature face glycolic acid,start with lower potency and work concentration up as skin will develop tolerance..
(Acid should not burn the skin
Skin should not feel reactive ,if skin reacts quit acid for few days and then re introduce acid in lower dose )
Moisturizer lite and hydrating
Eye cream
Lip balm

1-2x a week enzyme exfoliator
(Only 1 time a week is better if acids are used in night time skin care routine)
2- 3 x a week pleasent hydrating mask

When normal skin maturing
You should introduce to your client idea of using Retinol …

Combination Skin

DURING FACIAL
Makeup remover if needed usually oil based
Cleanser cream based
Cleanser cream based mixed with enzyme powder exfoliator
Massage grape seed oil
Desquamation fluid for pore cleaning
Pore cleaning
Calamine lotion as mask for 12-15 min
Cream cleanser
Toner low PH preferably vinegar based
Serum with hyaluronic acid and peptides
Lite moisturizer with ceramides ,peptides , Squalane
All over the face ,could be added to U zone as extra layer
SPF

At home care
Morning
Milk cleanser with squalane ,peptides,ceramides
On entire face
Toner Low PH Toner (vinegar based )
Diluted with distilled water
As skin gets comfortable with the acid,more of the toner can be added to the wet cotton .
Serum
Vitamin C serum all over the face
Moisturizer:Lite hydrating moisturizer with ceramides,peptides,dipeptides
hyaluronic acid ,all over the face
Thicker moisturizer with oils could be added as second layer on U zone if needed
SPF

NIGHT TIME
Double cleanse
Low PH toner diluted
2 hydrating toner with glycerin could be added to U zone
Serum hyaluronic acid,peptides ,dipeptides
Once a week lactic acid serum could be used
Ask client to watch the skin
How it reacts to Lactic acid
If skin has reaction mix lactic acid with other hydrating serum
If not use undiluted lactic acid serum
Cream
Ceramides ,hyaluronic ,and yeast
Yeast is amazing ingredient in night time skincare cream

Exfoliation 1 time a week enzyme powder
Masking -soothing botanical
Once a week
Hydrating mask -once a week

Post age 35 slowly introduce retinol by mixing retinol cream or serum with moisturizer 2 nights a week

Oily Skin

Oily skin conditions -Acne,clogged pores ,greasy-shiny skin , Couperose, Sebaceous purging

Facial protocol
Makeup remover oil or cream cleanser
Second cleanse cream cleanser with enzyme exfoliant
Massage with grape seed oil
Only if skin is not covered with acne
(We don’t massage skin with acne
In case of acne we use Desquamation fluid with hot towel wrap )
Pore cleaning
Calamine lotion or calamine mask 15 min
You can use Blue light 415nm LED
For 15 min
While client is on mask you can do either shoulder or head massage
Remove mask with warm towel
Use mild cream cleanser
Quick cleanse
Toner PH 3.3 -5.5
Serum with Niacinamide and / or hyaluronic acid
Cream lite oil free moisturizer
SPF

At home care
Morning
Gentle foam cleanser
Could be with salicylic acid (BHA)
Must be mild formulation
Toner PH 3.5-5.5
Serum With Niacinamide or
vitamin C
Cream oil free with hyaluronic acid
Eye cream
SPF

Night time
Cream cleanser for makeup removal
Gentle foam cleanser with
Glycolic acid
Toner PH 3.5 -5.5
Serum :Lactic acid ,Niacinamide ,Salicylic acid also could be used
3 times a week retinol product should be used on clients after age of 35 - DO NOT USE RETINOL ON THE DAYS WHEN OTHER ACTIVE PRODUCTS ARE USED
Cream :Hyaluronic moisturizer
Eye cream

At home treatment:
Exfoliating with enzyme exfoliator
2 times a week

Mask 3-4 times a week
Calamine mask (make sure you have calamine mask in your inventory for your clients to purchase)
Clay mask that does not dry out

Blue LED 415nm 3-4 times a week
It is great idea to have quality LED mask in your inventory to be able to sell to your clients

LED mask should have
Blue-415nm
RED -633nm
Near infra Red-830nm

Dry Skin

Dry skin type - conditions dehydration,aging skin also often time turns to dry skin type
As female fertility hormones decline skin gets drier.
However young people can also have dry skin type due to genetics.

Facial treatment
Cleanse
First cleanse balm or oil cleanser
Second cleanse cream cleanser with enzyme powder exfoliator
Massage
Massage with sweet almond oil or
Thick balm ,massage for at least 15-20 min
Wrap face with warm towel
Remove oil

Cleaning
Apply scaling fluid
Either massage face with scaling fluid, (wet your fingers with water for gliding during massage 8-10min) or wrap face with warm towel
Clean pores if needed
Mask
Apply hydrating-nourishing mask
10-12 min (either shoulder or scalp massage is advised during the mask phase)
Remove mask with warm towel
Toner
Toner -Use vinegar based toner
PH 3.5 -5.5 dilute it
Serum
Serum -oil based serum
Jojoba oil ,sea buckthorn oil,
Rosehip oil ,with vitamin C,E,Ceramides ,Fatty acids -
Oleic acid ,Linoleic acid ,a-Linoleic acid peptides
Creams
thick balm or cream
With Ceramides ,Glycerin,Hyaluronic acid ,Urea
Eye cream
SPF

At home protocol
Morning
Cleansing
Milk or balm hydrating cleanser with ceramides,fatty acids and cholesterol (one cleanse )
Toner
PH 5-7
Serum
Oil based serum with fatty acids or with hyaluronic acid and peptides
Moisturizer
Moisturizers with oils ,glycerine,hyaluronic acid ,ceramides and cholesterol
If skin is very dry
UREA is very important ingredient
Eye cream
SPF

Evening skincare
Cleansing
Double cleanse with cream or balm
With ceramides,fatty acids,cholesterol
Toner
PH5-7
Serum
Active serums should be used 2-3 times a week
Best acids 10% Lactic acid,2 times a week 10%Glycolic acid one time a week.
Followed with thick moisturizer or nourishing cream
Regular oil based serum with fatty acids should be used on days when acid serums are not used
Cream
Nourishing cream or thick moisturizer with Ceramides ,Cholesterol,Fatty acids and Urea

At winter time with dry heat
Encourage your clients with dry skin to use humidifier
Encourage your clients to take omega fatty acids as supplements.
Nordic Naturals are repurchased by me to be clean and non toxic
However if you have preferred brand that you know applying destination to fish oil making then
Absolutely use that brand

Treatments :
Exfoliation
Mild enzyme based exfoliation
2 times a week
Masks up to 4-5 times a week thick nourishing hydrating mask with oils ,beeswax ,peptides ,jojoba oil

Retinol
Retinol is very healthy for dry skin types
Start on very lite retinol formula
Or mix retinol serum in to night cream
Start with 2 times a week
Watch the skin
As skin will show no reaction
Increase to 5 nights a week

On aging skin that is moderately dry use Retinol directly on the cleansed ,toned skin is serum phase.
Start with 2 nights a week and bring in up to 5 -7
Optimal strength in serum is 0.5%
But start with lower dosage .

Sensitive Skin Type

Sensitive- skin is skin type
While sensitized skin is condition that any skin type can have
Person with sensitive skin has reactive ,irritated ,red skin throughout the life .
While person with sensitized skin condition could have temporary irritation due to overuse of active
Ingredients like acids or even over washing skin ,or being too long on the sun without proper protection.
What makes skin sensitive or sensitized ?
Compromised lipid barrier and compromised Microbiome of the skin .
Lipid barrier and Microbiome are skins protection from environmental hazards ,pollution ,
Fluctuation of temperature ,viruses …
When that protection barrier is compromised skin becomes irritable ,red ,reactive …
Conditions like rosacea should be also treated as sensitive skin .

Facial treatment
With sensitive skin we should be careful and nourishing
NEVER USE STEAM ON SENSITIVE SKIN
NEVER USE VERY HOT TOWELS ON SENSITIVE SKIN

Cleanser
Cream cleanser
With ceramides,fatty acids and cholesterol,try to find product that has equal amounts of this 3 ingredients because that ratio mimics natural lipid barrier of the skin

Massage with lite hand pressure with ,use Grape seed oil
Perform very lite pore cleaning if needed

Use calamine lotion for 8-10 min after pore cleaning as mask ,
remove carefully by applying wet 4x4 first to soften product

Use Toner PH 5-7
Serum hyaluronic acid,peptides,
Collagen

Massage with nourishing moisturizer with Ceramides,Hyaluronic acid,Peptides,Sea buckthorn oil
Coco butter ,Jojoba oil,Chamomile oil,Squalane,Colloidal Oatmeal, Calendula, Shea butter,Beeswax..

SPF preferably physical for healing zinc properties

At home recommendations
Morning
Cleansing with cream cleanser with
Ceramides ,fatty acids and cholesterol
One cleanse only
Toner PH 5-7
Serum hyaluronic acid,peptides,collagen (thick molecule very protective)

Cream
Ceramides,Hyaluronic acid,Peptides,Sea buckthorn oil
Coco butter ,Jojoba oil,Chamomile oil,Squalane,Colloidal Oatmeal, Calendula, Shea butter ,Beeswax.

SPF apply all day long every 3 hours while daytime
Preferably zinc SPF

Night time
Makeup remover-oil only
Cleansing with cream cleanser
Same cleanser as in the morning

Toner PH 5-7 6 nights a week
One night a week introduce
Diluted with distilled water ,acetic acid toner PH 3.5-5
For microbiome benefits
However ask client to watch skin
If very irritated in the morning then
Add more distilled water less acetic acid toner ratio next week
If no irritation bring up to 2x a week

Serum with peptides ,hyaluronic acid

Cream
Ceramides,Hyaluronic acid,Peptides,Sea buckthorn oil
Coco butter ,Jojoba oil,Chamomile oil,Squalane,Colloidal Oatmeal, Calendula, Shea butter,Beeswax.

Exfoliation
If skin is extremely sensitive
Don’t exfoliate at all

Masks as often as it is comfortable for skin
Could be used every day
Hyaluronic acid,Peptides,Sea buckthorn oil Chamomile,Colloidal Oatmeal, Calendula,

We don’t use retinol on sensitive or sensitized skin
However as sensitized skin will come to normal
Retinol should be introduced